A Gentleman’s Guide to Sweaters

You say sweater, I say jumper!  He says pullover, she says jersey! 

Ultimately, they all refer to a knitted garment that covers the upper body and arms…and depending on the cut, sometimes it covers the neck as well. 

Whether you are dressing up or going for comfort, the sweater is one of the most versatile pieces in a man’s wardrobe.

History of the Sweater

Now a staple garment of everyday clothing, historically the sweater was mostly functional. The most famous historical wearers were fishermen, who needed a warm, hard-wearing, yet comfortable item of clothing to protect them from the ruthless elements.

15th Century

As far back as the 15th century, it was tradition for the wives of Guernsey fishermen, to knit “guernseys” with tightly spun wool that repelled the sea spray. The knitting patterns were passed down through generations, purely from memory.

17th Century 

Throughout the 17th century, as trade links developed, the “guernsey” was adopted and modified by coastal communities across the British Isles and the North Sea. Based on the original pattern, they became known as a “gansey” or “jersey” and were distinctively patterned across the yoke with a stitch local to the wearer’s village.

19th Century 

In the mid-19th century, the “gansey” was adopted by the Royal British Navy and remains to this day part of the uniform for various members of the British military. 

The Aran Jumper is believed to have been invented about this time. Fishermen and their wives from other regions in the British Isles helped train the islanders of Aran in better fishing and fish-processing skills, bringing with them an existing tradition of knitted guernsey jumpers. Enterprising women on Aran began knitting their own version, using thicker local wool and all-over patterning.     

However, the origins of Fair Isle knitting patterns is not certain. Their similarity to Moorish patterns has led to the, rather romantic, notion of a link to the Spanish Armada ship, El Gran Grifon, which shipwrecked there in 1588. Others believe that the skill may have been the result of Vikings who settled there in the more distant past. By the mid-19th century all-over patterned garments were being traded off the isle and the evolution of the intricate patterning has continued ever since.

A Sign of the Times

In 1921, the trend-setting Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) was given a Fairisle sweater vest (sometimes referred to as men's fair isle sweaters), which he wore in public. He was always keen to promote British products, and his wardrobe would soon include Fairisle sweaters (also known as fair isle) and socks, sparking a craze for the pattern and setting crew neck and v-neck sweaters on a course to become wardrobe staples for all classes of men. As such, the “functional” sweater became considered both versatile and fashionable.

Choosing a Sweater Style 

The Crew Neck 

Regarded by many as the most classic and timeless of designs, the crew neck sweater sits as a staple piece in any man’s wardrobe. Truly versatile, it can be worn as both casual or smart attire. Defined by its lack of collar, its rounded and close-fitting neckline is ideal for wearing over a collared shirt. More commonly seen in a relaxed setting and typically worn with a pair of casual trousers or chinos. 

The V-Neck 

The v-neck is often seen as a “step up” on the formal meter from a crew neck, as the neckline has a more traditional and conventional look. Whilst other knitwear garments may look to different patterns and colours to compliment the outfit, the v-neck lends itself to a subtlety with basic colours and plain designs. Pairs perfectly with a dress shirt and is regularly combined with a tie. Arguably one of the best choices when looking for a smart casual knitwear garment.

The Cardigan   

Cardigans function like jackets and open down the front with buttons, toggles or zips. They can be worn open or closed and the best ones provide some taper around the waist to help slim you down (similar to suits). Those lighter in weight are perfect for layering, but the chunky knit cardigan can function perfectly as a jacket during spring and autumn.

Sweater Patterns & Knits

Sweaters come in a wide range of colours, patterns and knits including: 

Sweater Yarns

Possibly the most important factor in selecting a sweater is choosing the correct yarn. Too light and you’ll be bone cold; too heavy and you’ll be clammy and uncomfortable. Nailing the yarn is paramount. Nine times out of ten natural fibres will look better, feel better, and last longer than sweaters full of synthetic material. Always aim to buy the best quality you can.

Some of the most common yarns and weights include: 

Cashmere 

Cashmere is a coveted material for both its softness and warmth, which can be up to 8x warmer than sheep wool. However, prices for cashmere sweaters can vary wildly because not all cashmere is alike, though all cashmere is derived from the fine under hair of the cashmere goat. The finest quality cashmere is made from the thinnest and longest fibres, usually from Mongolia and China. 

Alpaca Wool 

Alpaca wool is considered to be as soft as cashmere. However, microscopic air pockets in the fibre makes it about 7% warmer. It is elastic, lanolin free, hypo-allergenic and as such ideally suited to people who are allergic to wool or cashmere. It is also most likely to be found blended with other natural materials. 

Merino Wool 

Merino wool is a highly desirable type of wool that has seen a lot of popularity over time. It is ranked as one of the best wools in terms of quality (having been regarded as some of the softest and finest wool) and comes from the Merino sheep.  Typically, a merino sweater will be thinner, softer and more durable, although for the most part not as warm as a lambswool.

Lambswool 

Lambswool is collected during the first shearing of a lamb and is probably the most common type of yarn. The great thing about Lambswool over other yarns, is that the fibres are very short and soft which allows for a great insulating and breathable sweater that is extremely comfortable to wear. For this reason, the Lambswool sweater makes an excellent choice for the winter season. 

Shetland Wool 

Shetland sweaters, made from that wool, are not bulky like cable knits or thin like Merino; they’re as warm as they are airy, packing a dense weave with an oven-like effect of keeping heat in without weighing you down. Like most wool though, when made into knitwear, it is very warm, even if slightly rougher in feel than lambswool. The knitwear, like the sheep, is very long wearing and relatively easy to look after. 

Cotton 

Cotton is a very common yarn, which is durable, lightweight and cool. It’s especially popular for wearing in the spring and summer to ward off the late-night chill. Cotton sweaters don’t provide much protection from the cold, but they are a step up compared to just wearing a shirt. Since they’re so light, they can easily be tied around your neck. Mostly used in casual dressing.

Conclusion

Knitwear design encompasses style as well as practicality; this is what makes knitwear a versatile and functional piece of attire. With this in mind, as with design, when purchasing knitwear, the visual should only be part of the consideration, with the practicality being the other. 

What is your favourite style of knitwear and how do you wear it?

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